BROW BASICS I

Some women are fortunate enough to have eyebrows that grow in abundance.   As for others, eyebrows can be whispy or almost non-existent.  Whatever the case is, groomed brows can change your look from great to gorgeous.  For those of you who would like to add definition or color, this is your guide.  We will also explain how to properly measure where the brows should start, arch, and end.

Here are examples of different brow shapes:

 
Brooke Shields - Natural
Eva Mendes - Shaped/arched

Eyebrows hold a lot of expression!  Severely arched brows that are too thin can give a surprised expression, while thicker slightly straighter brows can look natural and prominent. This first entry will focus on brow dimensions.

You will need the following:

1.) Brow shader or shadow that closely matches brows
2.) Angled eye brush
3.) Brow pencil (optional)
4.) Brow gel (optional)

Note: Beginning with a shadow is recommended if you are new to filling in your brows and/or do not have a steady hand. Using a shadow will make the finished eyebrows look more natural, as it is softer than a pencil. If your brows are unruly and need a little guidance, a brow gel is just what you may need to tame them. Brow gels vary from clear to natural brow colors.

With your tools in hand, let's begin!

STEP one:
Start by lining up a straight stick like a pencil or an eye shadow brush from the edge of your nose to the inside corner of your eye.  This is where the brow should begin.  Mark a soft dot of shadow as reference. 

Symmetry is best achieved when completing each step to both eyes before moving on.  Eyebrows are not naturally symmetrical.  Think of them as sisters, rather than twins- they only need to look similar.

STEP two:
To determine where your arch should be, hold a brush at the center of the tip of your nose. Adjust brush so that it passes over your pupil.  Follow the diagonal line and mark your arch like the guide below as a reference.




STEP three:
Place the brush at the tip of your nose again, this time adjusting it to line up with the outer corner of the eye.  This gives a guide to where the brow should end.  Mark accordingly.




STEP four:
With your guides now in place, we are now ready to connect them.  Rest angled eye shadow brush on first mark.  In one even stroke, connect the first and second mark.  Be mindful of the thickness you would like to achieve.  For a very natural approach, trace just inside of the natural hair line.




STEP five:
Continue this same motion from the second mark to the third.




STEP six:
Fill in the brows, continuing to use even strokes.  Keeping strokes inside the natural hair line is the best way to begin. 

Try practicing different shapes and thicknesses to customize the brows to your eyes and face. Remember, practice makes perfect.  Use a brow gel to help set eyebrows in a smooth path. 

To soften any harsh lines or color, try combing through your brows with a clean mascara wand or brow comb.

Enjoy your finished look.

*MIA tip:

Flaunt your skills by adding a highlight shadow just under the brow arch to the end of the brow.  This will give a lifted affect.

Creating the Classic Red Lip

The quintessential red lip has been around since the 1920's, and looks as timeless as ever. We have seen it on the classic faces of Marilyn Monroe and Audrey Hepburn, as well as modern-day icons like Gwen Stefani and Madonna.

   

Seen on countless runways, this red carpet look seems more popular than ever. Always neat and polished, the classic red lip looks best when paired with clean black eyeliner and a generous amount of mascara.   

A red lip may seem too dramatic a color for some, but fortunately there is a shade of red for everyone.  Most reds are either brown, orange, or blue-based.  A brown-based red is more natural, and for some, easier to wear.  Orange and blue-based shades of red tend to be more vivid.  No matter what shade is used, the color red makes a statement and should be the primary focus of the face.

To create this classic look yourself, you will need to start with healthy, well-hydrated lips.  We suggest using a lip conditioner before applying the color.  A lip primer is also recommended to prevent the lipstick from bleeding.  This will create a semi-matte surface on the lips, ensuring a smooth application. 

What You Will Need:

1. Lip conditioner

2. Red Lip Liner

3. Red Lipstick

4. Gloss (optional)

5. Lip Primer (optional)

STEP one:

Start by drawing a "V" with lip liner on cupid's bow making sure to trace the natural lip line. 

STEP two:

Connect the "V" to the outer edge of the lip, starting from the inside out.  Repeat this motion on the other side to help keep the lines symmetrical. 

STEP three:

Mark lip liner at the center of the bottom lip line.  After line is drawn, follow natural lip line up to corner of mouth.   

STEP four:

Fill in lips with lip liner by sitting side of drawn line and dragging the color in.  This will prevent separation of the liner and lipstick giving lipstick more staying power.

STEP five:

A lip brush is recommended for a precise and even application.  After coating lip brush with lipstick, fill in your lips.  Do not forget to cover the corners of the mouth. 

Tip: If glossy lips are your choice of weapon, choose a red or clear gloss to apply over.  

Say Goodbye To Winter Skin

Dull, scaly, itchy, dry, flaky...  These are the words to describe how my skin has been feeling lately.  When I smile, laugh, yawn, or attempt any facial movements, I can almost hear the cracking of my skin. Dry, cold winters have no mercy when it comes to the epidermis, especially living in the midwest.  The persistent winds strip moisture from the skin, thus leaving our supple faces and bodies parched.  I decided it was time to put an end to my thirsty skin without the help of medications or a dermatologist.  After research, conversations with my esthetician friends, and personal experimentation, I have found that following the suggestions below significantly heal my chapped body.

1.  Skim milk powder bath:  

The thought of bathing in milk would not usually be at the top of my to-do list, but in my case I would have to comply.  I have found this bath to be equally relaxing, soothing, and extremely moisturizing.  Mix one cup of powdered skim milk with 2-3 drops of lavender oil, and add to bath.  *Note: Adding cereal is optional.

2.  B-Complex Vitamins:

These help in synthesizing fats and oils for healthier skin.  The B-Complex vitamins contain 8 vitamins that are essential for healthy skin and hair.  They are wonderful if you suffer from chapped, cracked lips.

3. Fatty acids:

Avocados and almonds are both rich in essential fatty acids which are key to reviving your skin. Try mashing up an avocado and using it as a mask.  Leave it on about 20 minutes and you will instantly see pliant results.  Nothing says moisture like a guacamole mask.

4. Water:

Imagine that, water...  In order to minimize dehydrated skin, we should be drinking about 1-2 liters a day. That's right, put away that coffee and aperitif because they will do more damage than what is already done.

5. Bye-bye baths:

I know that hot baths are a favorite in the winter time.  There's nothing like a hot bubble bath to soak and relax in.  Although it may calm you, it won't calm your skin.  Prolonged baths can strip off lipids, making you perspire and stimulate water evaporation from the surface of your skin.

6. Humidifiers:

Putting one in your bedroom is a must for tired, winter skin.  A humidifier will control your environment keeping a skin-friendly humidity level. 

7. Moisturize:

Moisturize and do some more moisturizing.  Personally, I am a huge fan of Shiseido's Moisture Night Recharge in enriched.  Rich to the touch, it leaves my stressed skin supple, healthy and glowing.  I apply my sunscreen protection afterwards to lock in the moisture and protect.  

If you are looking for other types of skin care especially designed for dry, dull skin:

-SK-II Facial Treatment Mask

This is a reviving, relaxing full facial treatment that drenches your skin in moisture, and gives an immediate youthful glow.

-Shiseido Benefiance Pure Retinol Intensive Revitalizing Face Mask

Saturating the skin with moisture, this treatment restores youthful suppleness and radiance.

-Aveeno Skin Relief Moisturizing Cream

Formulated for extremely dry skin, it contains oatmeal, cocoa, and shea butter.  This formula has been clinically proven to moisturize skin for 24 hours.

- Nina

Setting the Record Straight on Smoky Eyes.

When someone tells me they want a smoky eye, I have a very clear picture in mind. I think smoldering, blacked-out eyes degrading into beautiful shades of gray. Six times out of ten, that's definitely not what they had in mind. No, smoky in their eyes means just neutral browns, just eyeliner rimmed around the eyes, etc. etc. We all have different ideas of this vaguely termed style of makeup, but one thing is for sure: Smoky eyes look smokin' hot on everyone, but as always, it's essential to find what is fitting for your face.

Keep in mind the idea of "smoke" entails the deepest color fading up in tints to the lightest color. Also, smoky eyes does not necessarily mean black or grays, for example, you can start with a deep eggplant purple smoking up to a light soft lilac tint. See example below.

There are many different ways to achieve this look. I will demonstrate what I find is the basic, easiest, and most consistent way to create a smoky eye. In this tutorial, I will show you a level 6 smoky eye on an imaginary scale of 1 to 10- 10 being blacked-out, the most dramatic smoky. We will focus first on a conventional look; a matte black-gray smoky eye using black degrading up to a light gray. After you've practiced the standard smoky eye, the other types (colored smoky, liner smoky, etc) will come much easier.

What you will need:

1. A smudgy black eyeliner

2. A safe-for-waterline black eyeliner

3. A creamy flat black eyeshadow

4. A creamy flat dark gray eye shadow (you can use more than 1 shades of gray)

5. A stiff synthetic hair eye shadow brush

6. A tapered blending brush (synthetic or natural)

Tip: Create your smoky eye first, before applying the rest of your makeup regime. This way you can clean the face of any fall-out, thus insuring a clean final look.

Ready? Let's begin

STEP one:

First, start to feel around your eye socket bone. With your soft smudgy black eyeliner, draw up from the base, making sure the liner is deepest by the lash line and softer as it goes up to the socket line. Do not go higher than the socket line. Don't worry about how it looks now because we will smooth it out later. Repeat with other eye.

STEP two:

Next, with your stiff synthetic eye shadow brush, move the smudged liner marks up, paying attention that the deepest hue will sit on the lash line and fade into a lighter tint by the socket line. In other words, darkest on bottom and lightest on top. Repeat on the other eye.

STEP three:

Now, with your tapered blending brush apply the dark-gray eye shadow. This is a building process, so be mindful of how much product you have on your brush. Start from the base of the lash line and blend up with the excess. I personally like to go in little circles for flawless blending. Be careful not to blend too far past your socket line. Repeat with the other eye, making sure both eyes are symmetrical.

*Tip: Putting on the eye shadow over the smudged liner sets the eye, so the smoked liner underneath will not move around.

STEP four:

You should now have soft-gray smoky eyes. With the blending brush, apply the black eye shadow softly from the lash line up. The more dramatic you want your smoky eyes to be will depend on how much of the black eye shadow you use. For this demo, we have chosen to do a level 6 smoky eye.

STEP five:

Now the key step in achieving the perfect smoky eye look; apply your safe-for-waterline liner on your waterline.

STEP six:

With the stiff, synthetic hair eye shadow brush, smoke out the lower lash line. Again, being mindful that it will go from dark fading out.

STEP seven:

Now that you have rocked-out your smoky eyes, go and clean any fall out and start your regular makeup regime.

A Beginner's Guide to False Strip Lashes

They are around more than you think.  

Today long eyelashes seem to be considered a sign of femininity in most cultures.  Not all of us are blessed with this trait.  Women go to far lengths to achieve this coveted look.  Yes, we get our lashes extended, and buy every mascara on the market because we saw tarantula lashes on the model in the ad; not knowing that most, if not all, mascara models are wearing faux cils, duh.   Fake lashes can cost between $2-$20 (USD) and it's an easy, affordable and fun way to summon your inner celebrity/femininity/vamp/(you fill in the blank.) 

Examples of false lashes:

 

 

Lashes won't do any good without quality glue.  Yes, quality.  Not those mini vials of ill-smelling runny glue at the local stop 'n shop.  I am confident to say that Duo glue is simply the best.  It is a surgical adhesive so it will stay on strongly, unlike lash glues that may burn or irritate.  However, Duo does contain latex so if you are allergic to latex, skip out on this glue. Instead, try Vincent Longo's non-latex adhesive glue.

There are two different types of false lashes.  They will either come in strip or individual which will provide you with different effects.  

a. The strip is the easier of the two to put on, instantly dramatizing your eye.  Strips can vary in full length for the entire top lash line, corners for just the ends, and bottoms for your lower lash line.

b. The individuals are more difficult to apply but they are more natural.  Great for wedding makeup or day, but these little devils take practice and patience.  Individuals are wonderful for creating a natural, full look on any part of your lashes.

*Tip: Applying false lashes should be the very last step.  Your eye makeup should be already be done.  Be sure to curl and apply mascara BEFORE taking these next steps.

What you will need:

1. Lash strips

2. Lash glue (Duo)

3. Tweezers

4. Sharp scissors

5. Flat toothpick 

6. A liquid or cream eyeliner

7. A black eye shadow

STEP one:

With the prep step already done, take out a lash strip and set it on top of your lashes.  Most false lashes will need to be trimmed.  While looking in the mirror, adjust accordingly keeping note how much of the strip you may have to cut for a perfect fit.

Take your sharp scissors and cut the excess.  Repeat step for the other eye.  

 

STEP two:

Now that you have your perfectly fit lashes, apply glue on a clean, disposable surface.  The key to flawless lash application is the glue's consistency when it goes on the strip.  You want it to be tacky, so let it sit on your surface for a minute.

STEP three:

With a stiff eye brush, apply black eye shadow on the clear, shiny part of your lash strip.  This will matte down the clear strip to make it look more natural and realistic when applied.

STEP four:

Picking up one strip, holding the lash end, apply the glue with the flat end of the toothpick on the strip.  Be careful to apply a thin layer of glue only on the strip.  Hold both ends of your lash strip and bend in a "U" shape about 5-6 times.

 

STEP five:

Next, with your tweezers hold the center of the strip and match it up to the center of your eye. Remember, you want to rest them directly on top of where your lashes meet the skin. With your two hands, place the ends down to the corners of your eye.  Hold down for about 30 seconds, limiting the times you blink.  Repeat with the other eye. 

 

 

*Tip: If you have trouble with this step don't feel discouraged.  Applying false lashes definitely takes practice and patience.

STEP six:

With your false lashes now in place, apply liquid or cream eyeliner on top of the lash line to hide the strip.  Repeat with the other eye.

You now have beautiful, full lashes.  Optional: Bat, hither and stare.

M.A.C. unveils the "N" Collection

For those of you who think that M.A.C. makeup is too eccentric, loud, and over the top, think again.  M.A.C. cosmetics launches the limited edition "N" Collection specifically geared towards women who adore prime looks.  This collection is rich in sultry browns, nudes, soft pinks and pastels perfect beauty makeup. For those of you who are freelance makeup artists, definitely stock up on these for your wedding kits while they last. 

"Seductive and ripe for scandal.  A colour collection daringly stripped-down, voluptuously finished, with everything you could possibly need to play up the nakedness of your look.  Think of it as naked- with coverage." -M.A.C.

M.A.C. will be introducing new colors in shadows, lipsticks, lip glasses and nail polishes for a limited time only.  If you live in Chicago, M.A.C. stores and partnered locations will be holding a "N" Collection event. You can call to reserve a 30 minute appointment with a M.A.C. artist and be reintroduced to flawless, natural beauty makeup.

To locate a M.A.C. near you, visit www.maccosmetics.com

For more information on the collection visit www.maccosmetics.com

Case Study: Brigitte Bardot

After watching Brigitte Bardot in the 1958 classic film Une Parisienne, I knew I had seen perfect representation of beauty.  Her signature thick black cat-eye liner and soft-orange matted lips has remained timeless.  Fifty years later, the cat-eye is back and bigger than ever. The clean black eyeliner look has been seen on all the top runway shows and fashion spreads. Also, matte lips come back this season with a bang and it's not just about the reds.  This season we're seeing a lot of oranges, purples, and pinks.  So, here at M.I.A. we're going to give our trick to creating this season's hottest look.

Look straight into a mirror to examine your eye shape.  Although the cat-eye is universal, it is imperative that you customize it to your face.  The most consistent trends we have been seeing are the connected and disconnected graphic liner looks.

a. The connected liner is very sharp and clean.  It is the most intense out of the two looks.  It is often paired with perfected skin, mild contouring on the cheekbones and minimal blush

 

 

b. The disconnected liner is just the dark liner on the top.  This look has been the most versatile paired up with a bold or nude lip.

  

What you will need:

1.  A synthetic hair angled brush

2. A long lasting wet to dry eye liner in a cream or gel-like formula

3. Cotton swabs to erase the mistakes

4. A quick change eye makeup remover

5. A volumizing mascara that thicken your lashes

6. False lashes to perfect Brigitte's signature eye  (Optional)

Executing the Brigitte Bardot cat-eye calls for the connected liner.  Ready?  Let's begin.

STEP one:  

With your angled brush dip it into your eyeliner pot evenly coating the product both sides of the brush head.  Remember, a calm steady hand is the trick.

STEP two:

We are going to stamp the angled brush according to the natural line of our eyes.  Looking in a mirror, carefully stamp your brush at the end of your eye as it best suits it.  If you want a more dramatic diagonal liner, stamp at a 45 degree angle.  Repeat the other eye making sure that it is symmetrical.

STEP three:  

Now, with the brush starting at the outer corner of the eye, slowly bring in the line towards middle.  The key here is building up not carelessly filling it in.  Continue this bringing the line over the line you just drew.  

When you close your eye, the liner should be shaped like an obtuse triangle meaning there should be no curve, just a straight line down.  Repeat with other eye.

 

STEP four:  

The ends of the liner should be crisp and clean.  Be mindful about how much pressure you apply at the tips.  This is your disconnected liner look.

*Tip:  If you've made a mistake, don't worry.  Just dip your cotton swab into the makeup remover and carefully erase any marks you see.

STEP five:

Once the top lids are evenly lined, carefully connect the outer point down to the lower lash line. Just like step 3, we're going to stack lines on top of each other to create a clean crisp shape.  Now you have created a connected liner.

 

STEP six:

After checking that both eyes are symmetrical, apply your mascara.  For this look feel free to coat them 3 or 4 times.

STEP seven:

Optional:  Ensemble your sultry new eyes with matte neutral-orange lips et voila!  Brigitte Bardot on the go.

January 2008: M.I.A. Artist of the Month

Name:  Robyn Rickenbach

Location:  Thousand Oaks, California USA

I met Robyn while in Paris attending school.  Ecstatic to meet another American who was studying makeup abroad, we immediately became close friends.  She is a talented makeup artist specializing in beauty.  I've never met anyone who can apply foundation flawlessly like this girl can.

Robyn currently attends an esthetics program in Los Angeles.  She has found that skin care is her second love.  

Exclusively to M.I.A. readers, she has generously revealed her absolute must-have beauty products.  

1. Hoola by Benefit

"This is my favorite bronzer.  I use it all over the face and it gives a nice summer glow for winter skin.  And this product lasts forever."

www.benefitcosmetics.com

2.  Dermalogica Daily Microfoliant

"I use this on my face and body.  Its a very mild exfoliator that leaves my skin very soft and glowing."

www.skincarerx.com

3.  Smith's Rosebud Salve

"This is my absolute favorite lip balm.  I apply it religiously.  It keeps the lips moisturized.  Looks great over faded lip liner of lipstick."

www.sephora.com

4.  Touche Eclat by Yves Saint Laurent #2

"This is a product I cannot live without.  I use this concealer/highlighter for under eyes and t-zone.  It's super light and it doesn't even look like you're wearing makeup."

  

www.yslbeautyus.com

An Introduction to M.I.A.

After attending an extensive makeup academy in Paris, I moved back to the States not knowing what step to take next.  Shortly thereafter, I landed a job as an artist for a prestigious high fashion cosmetic company.  I presently teach clients product application, current trends, secret tricks of the trade, and how to avoid cosmetic faux-pas.  I've decided to use this site to share my insights and opinions with other artists, enthusiasts and aspirants.  If diamonds are a girl's best friend, then makeup is our "frenemy".  I'm not claiming to be a world renowned makeup artist or a pretentious expert, instead I'm claiming to be a woman who adores everything about makeup- I live it and breathe it.  Together we'll solve any cosmetic pinch we're in.